Vocational and Income Generating Training
Cutting and Tailoring
    List of Skills
    Cutting and Tailoring   
    Fabric work like Block Printing and Batik
    Hindi Typing and Word Processing
    Embroidery and Fabric design  
    Food Processing and Pickle Making  
    Growing and Marketing Vegetables  
    Making Herbal Shampoos and Various
    other Household items
    Solar Cooking
    Waste management
Vocational and Income Generating Training
Cutting and Tailoring
    Goals of Cutting and Tailoring  Manual

  • This manual is focused on development of human capacity to obtain the means of livelihood.
  • Research has shown that when women increase their income, they tend to spend a greater percentage of it to benefit the family than
    do men.
  • To empower rural and tribal women by giving them the skills to earn a livelihood which will increase the well-being of themselves, their
    families, and communities.
  • To foster an attitude of independence, initiative, and self-reliance that will overcome attitudes of dependency and helplessness.
  • To develop an understanding of the role of fine craftsmanship and business ethics in the success of any venture.
  • To enable rural and tribal women to increase their status as able generators of economic contributions to their families and
    communities.
    Organization of the Manual

    The book is divided into two sections; theory and practical.  Each chapter
    begins with a review of the previous lesson, followed by a  discussion of the
    goals of the lesson is, with an explanation as to why we need to learn this
    particular lesson.  
    The book begins with discussions of sewing terms, tools and materials used,
    and foundational techniques that are part of the manufacturing of a garment.  
    This includes care and maintenance of tools and machines, drafting patterns,
    hand stitches and the types of materials and supplies used in sewing.  
    Emphasis is also placed on the reason as to why it is important to produce
    work of the finest craftsmanship.  
    Trustworthiness is explained as essential quality to be acquired  for success
    in business.  
    The practical training begins with drafting and making a simple child’s dress
    and progresses with increasing complexity from ladies garments   to tailoring
    a gents  shirt.  They are encouraged to tailor for their own
    indigenous population.
    Each stage of a garment is illustrated with the help of step-by-step photos or
    drawings, which make it easier for
    the newly literate student to visualize the process. Scaled down versions of
    the garments are made by hand in a participatory learning method so that the
    student understands the method and sequence of construction.
    At the end of each lesson, what was just taught is reviewed again and a short,
    self-test is given to help the student to review her knowledge.  

    Through this curriculum the  Barli Institute enables them to  learn their
    tradition and culture, which helps in
    increasing their income. They utilise these skills and improve  their own life
    and communities.
    “Let us learn cutting and tailoring” book is distinguished because of   
    following reasons:
  • Before they start using  this book, all the trainees  trainee undergo
    literacy training for 3 months that builds their capacity to read,write and
    speak Hindi and learn numeracy, this book is a step forward in a very
    natural way.
  • The language is very simple and can be understood easily. With 23 years
    of experience of the Institute, the book is planned so they can learn and
    finish their curriculum in the six month time frame.
  • Oral and written questions  are also included  in the book  which help them
    in learning and revising.
  • They can evaluate  themselves on how much they are able to retain and
    what else they have yet to learn.
  • As they learn step by step, they  get encouragement to pick up the new
    lessons. By going through this look they become stronger, and are
    encouraged to develop their skills and find a new direction.
  • This book builds their capacity from the level starting form learning to be
    able to do the cutting and tailoring themselves and raise themselves to
    start their own business.
    The Institute’s  Cutting and Tailoring curriculum has been developed over
    the period of more than  26  years. It has emerged out of a  major challenge
    that there were hardly any such training manuals published in Hindi, and
    none aimed at the rural and tribal women who are mostly illiterate.
    There are a vast array of books on cutting and tailoring available in the
    market but mostly these are  either for professional courses for colleges etc.
    Barli Institute’s priority target population being approximately 80 %  of the
    illiterate rural and tribal women and the rest of them are just
    litrates/semilitrates, school drop outs, and thus it was very hard to train
    them using those books which were available.

    Barli Institute  prepares its students for successful passing of the National
    Institute of  Open Schooling( NIOS) Examination, therefore it has made a
    systematic effort to align its curricula  according to the   requirements of  
    NIOS. National Institute of Open Schooling, an autonomous organisation of
    Ministry of Human Resource Development, Government of India
    Even the NIOS handbook does not give complete instruction in a manner
    easily understood to our trainees.  At the Institute, curriculum material is
    developed and then each session is tested on the trainees. The main
    indicator was  understanding the content and put it into practice.
    In an interactive process of writing, field testing, consultation with experts
    in the field, and rewriting, the manual has been developed and refined over
    the years.  
    The curriculum manual is more comprehensive in approach to cutting and
    tailoring in that it also explains why certain techniques should be used.
Miss Jhalla Kirar 19 years old from Mundiva
village in Jhabua district shares her experience
how she prepared for National Institute of Open
Schooling cutting and tailoring exam
.

“When I came to Barli institute I was illiterate,
first we started with symbols then started making
words, slowly picking up reading and writing
skills. When I first joined I learned basic hand
stitches, how to operate the machine, then how
make the pattern on paper and transfer to the cloth
for cutting,
I learned how to make a simple petticoat, small
frock, different frocks, knickers, kurta, salwar,
pyjama, and shirt.
Before the exam for many days we would have
practice tests, earlier I was afraid of tests,
I slowly picked up and developed confidence.  We
went to another centre for the cutting and
tailoring exam, without any hesitation I wrote my
name, my roll no. then date just as we were taught,
and started writing the answers to the questions.  
Next day we had the practical exam at the Institute
lasting two and half hours”.     
    Above: learning to become tailor.
    Below: an ex trainee in her own tailoring shop in a small rural
    village.
    Traditionally village tailors are men, now thanks to training
    at Barli many villages in Western MP and other areas, have
    their own lady tailors.